What does it take to produce a haute couture collection?

What does it take to produce a haute couture collection?

I had the opportunity to be a guest at the Heaven Gaia haute couture show in Paris this September 2019 during Paris Fashion Week. They haven’t had one in a few years here and it was simply a bliss and an honour for our magazine. ( http://www.esimbimagazine.com )

Hope you enjoy it as much as I did 🙂

1| The collection presented during Paris Fashion week was very strong with a lot of details in fabrics, from silk to organza with embroidered designs. Where do you source your materials?

The choice of fabrics and materials is always the basis of the clothing. We prefer the natural material for the fabrication, combined with the smooth and silky silk, so that the overall garment is rigid and soft, combined with the embroidery or Chinese elements.

2| What story did you want to tell your audience?

I have been influenced by the opera culture since I was a child, so the feeling of the Chinese quintessence is always accumulated. After so many years of accumulation, I can finally present this theme to everyone. We began to explore Chinese opera culture from Kunqu Opera,which is the origin of Chinese Opera. All sorts of Chinese opera are the most representative forms of culture. Chinese opera represents the most wonderful and most thoughtful things of our national culture. The opera, born of Chinese culture, represents the essence of Chinese art.

3| It had been a few years since you showed a collection in Paris. What were your expectations for this season?

This year is the last year of our series theme of “Take turns”. Our theme for this year is “combination”, which is different and harmonious. This show is the most exciting show, and it is culturally one. At the same time, more expansion and gain in our business development.

4| What was your biggest challenge and how did you overcome it?

In fact, every year’s defile is a challenge for our team, but at the same time it is a very pleasant journey. This year’s Gaia legend team is going to do two shows on the same day. It is also a very big essay. Thanks to my team, we really did a perfect job.

5| When will the collection be available for sale? 

We can sell our clothing by request.

6| Is there a celebrity you dream of dressing?

I hope that everyone whoever loves Chinese culture can wear our clothing.

Here are a few looks of the collection…

Is racism the SS20 trend for the brand Magda Butrym?

Is racism the SS20 trend for the brand Magda Butrym?

On Saturday 28th September, after assisting to the beautiful fashion show by Rahul Mishra, I decided to rush to the Magda Butrym showroom which i was looking forward to.

I received my invitation as press early September and was very keen to discover the collection for the first time. There was only half an hour before they close so I really had to rush from Palais de Tokyo to rue Royale.
Before hand, I had a look at their Instagram page etc.., and it’s true that I didn’t see much melanin but as every fashion brand is trying on the diversity trend, I didn’t think much of the lack of dark skin people on the images representing the brand.
When I arrived, I was the only black girl in the room. I don’t know if any came before me. Having lived in a village most of my childhood, I was very very often the only black girl in the room so that never bothers me.
The first room was for the shoes. A beautiful collection displayed on “roses” as the flower is very much into the brand identity.
I could see hostesses bringing out champagne to guests but no one coming to me. Again, I didn’t think much of it since i don’t drink so I went into the next room. And there was the collection and some live models.
The collection was beautiful and reminded me of fashion campaigns of Kate Moss and Saint Laurent. Very sexy, with a rock and roll vibe, some prints and tailoring.
After walking around, taking a few pictures and making videos, I asked an hostess to show me the PR person as I wanted to know about the inspiration behind the collection. I didn’t know if the designer was in the room.
The hostess pointed to a blond girl in an all white suit, wearing Magda’s collection. She came with a look on her face, probably wondering how I landed in her showroom.
I don’t like to assume people’s thought but this was the first time that week, that I fell like I probably should have skipped a showroom.
Asia, introduced herself as the PR and straight away told me how the brand doesn’t lend clothes, or actually only to certain A-listers and bloggers. They also only do shoots with models. I thought that was fair enough if it’s the brand identity they want to preserved. All these was said in less than a minute. She wasn’t interested in who I was so I simply said I came from the magazine and gave her my card.
She was standing in front of me with gifts for the press in a branded box. A girl came to her to say goodbye and she gave her one. She gave many to other people there too. After the less than a minute conversation with me, and giving a gift to the girl in front of me, she simply said “sorry I have to go there” and went to the other side of the room to talk to other girls. I thought this was rude but I don’t like to make scenes so I kept looking at the collection. I don’t know what was in the box nor why I wasn’t “worthy” to apparently get one as the other press did.
You don’t invite people to disrespect them. If you don’t want black people in your showroom then do a background check before sending invitations. The room was cold and unfriendly. I was there for 35 minutes. Maybe I was hoping that I was getting the situation wrong. I went to a third room and asked a hostess if the designer was here and she pointed her out.
The designer was speaking with someone so I waited on the side…. 10 minutes later, because I wanted to see how this will end, a lady came up to me saying ” I see that you are waiting, did anyone walk you through the collection ?” I said no. Her name was Anya.
Her bright blue eyes were kind. She talked me through the collection and the inspiration behind it. I thanked her for that and she said she would email me but hasn’t yet. It’s ok.
I left Magda Butrym showroom feeling very very upset. I went to Poland for fashion week once and was lucky to not experience racism. So experiencing racism from a polish brand in my hometown is not acceptable!!
We don’t like racism in Fashion.
You don’t need to like me but you have to respect me, and that goes vice versa for everyone.
My cousin said when I told her the story: “what did you expect from a brand from a racist country ?” And I responded “respect, because Paris is not Poland!”
I am very disappointed of this experience and was wondering rather to write about it.
I decided to do so because it is important that things change. I never want anyone to feel as uncomfortable as they made me feel.
I am sure the brand will continue selling to its audience but as their goal is international stardom with celebrities wearing the brand.  The team at Magda Butrym should get used to seeing more people of colour. They are not many but we also walk in the fashion industry. From Naomi Campbell to Adut Akech, melanin is rolling throughout fashion and racism can’t seat with us.

9 tips: Survival guide to Paris Fashion Week.

9 tips: Survival guide to Paris Fashion Week.

Paris Fashion week this September was THE place to be!

I was covering the event for my magazine and got to meet my fashion Sheroes. I am still screaming inside. From one show to another I met Eva Longoria, Karlie Kloss, Alicia Silverstone, Jaimie Alexander, Coco Rocha, Carine Roitfeld, Alicia Aylies, Nandi Madida and Cindy Bruna. They were all super nice and easy to talk to. I am so grateful for all the opportunities to network with the brands and designers.

I had only 2 bad experiences but I really thought my first article should be about some tips to survive a week of marathons, showrooms, fashion shows, presentation, meetings and launch parties.

Rule 1: Comfortable shoes are a must

Why are your shoes important? Simply because you will walk a lot even if you go around in cabs. I wore pops on the first day and oh well, I suffered. The rest of the week I chose high knee boots and ankle boots with a big squared heel to help me get through the day. And it worked. I created simple but attractive looks for each day. I matched my clothes differently but always tried to keep it simple and classy so I didn’t feel like I was dressing up every day. It really felt natural after the third day. So my rule advice would be keep it simple but classy but always show your personality because that’s what attracts people. You can also keep a pair of ballerina in your bag, just in case 🙂

My new favourite shoe brand Chloe Gosselin 

 

Rule 2: Plan each day head

Each morning of Fashion week, I had a paper with my schedule for showrooms, fashion shows or whatever I had to do. Everything was in writing. The timing, the address, the date and the purpose. It really made things easier for me because once the event kicked off, i just had to pick up my paper by the day. Of course, some days may be disturb by another event doing up. Invitations are always coming especially when you have a media platform so keep an open mind and be flexible but not too much. Keep on your schedule and meet the brands that are important to your business if you have one.

white blank notebook
Photo by Tirachard Kumtanom 

 

Rule 3: Get your invitations in one place

PR houses usually send out paper/cards invitations by posts. It is more professional and classy for the brand. I love them and always keep the fancy ones. I wish I put one address to receive all my invitations so nothing gets lost. But unfortunately, I was not that wise and some didn’t make it to my inbox. Most of the times, there is a guest list at the door so if you forget your card, they can find you.

women s brown and green floral dress
Photo by Dmitry Zvolskiy 

 

Rule 4: Take a fashion friend along

I had a “fashion friend” along with me. She took some of my pictures and I did the same for her. She loves fashion too so it was really nice to share this experience with her. It would be a waste to go to all these places with someone who does not appreciate the beauty of a runway show.

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Rule 5: Check out the brand history looks 

Each evening, I was looking at the social media of the brands I would visit the next day. This helped me understand where they came from and their history. It really made the dialogue easy because they felt like we knew the brand well and of course were interested in the products.

Kimhekim runaway show

 

Rule 6: Test your camera or phone quality for photos

All these rules are super important. Everyone want to create awesome content during fashion week. They want to take the best pictures and so will you. Unless you have a professional photographer with you, you need a good camera. This will come handy in shooting the catwalk obviously but also your own content. With a good phone camera, you will have great quality photos even for prints. Remember that, the light is key. Don’t take pictures if there is no natural light on the subject.

Me at the Dior store, rue Saint Honore, Paris

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Rule 7: If you see a celebrity

If you are blessed like me and see a celebrity you admire, SPEAK TO THEM. They are human being. Don’t just ask for a photo because some would actually take time to speak to you. Be brave. You are in the same place and have something in common: the love of fashion and good style.

Karlie Kloss, Cindy Bruna, Carine Roitfeld, Alicia Silverstone, Jaimie Alexander, and Eva Longoria

 

Rule 8: If there’s no seat number, you are standing or your may be out!

Yes, that is correct. You always need to check if you have the confirmation of your seat number. It only happened once but I really would not want to be in he same situation again. We had email confirmation for a show on Sunday night like many there. It was cold and rainy so not the best weather. We had to wait outside until the people with a seat confirmation comes in. But in this case, they told us to wait 5 minutes as it was Standing. I told my colleague we should leave but we were already there so we waited a bit, as did many many others in the bad weather. After 25 minutes, the very mean girl at the entrance said no one could get in. You can imagine how upset we were. A lady came all the way from New York and also had an email confirmation, but this made no difference. Moral of the story is, some PR send out more invites than seats to make sure the place is full in case people don’t show up. Don’t fall in the trap and ask about the seating arrangements.

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Rule 9: You cannot wear something twice

No, No, no, you cannot wear something twice. You will also need to plan all your outfits ahead so you have no stress during the fashion week. It is always good to choose something classic, vintage maybe and a current trend that will take you through the day from one event to another. During fashion week, the judgement level is so low (ah ah ah). People feel more confident in wearing what they want so you will see a lot of colours and extravagance. I personally LOVE it!!

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